Hair Adaptation

In a recent article in Xcellence I wrote an article raising awareness around ‘hair discrimination’. Committed to develop this conversation further, this article explores hair adaptation. Hair adaptation typically refers to the ways in which hair adjusts or responds to various factors, including environmental conditions, lifestyle changes and personal choices. This adaptation can encompass both the physical characteristics of the hair (such as texture and colour) and the styles or treatments individuals choose for their hair.

Our hair serves as a remarkable reflection of our identity, seamlessly adapting to the ever-changing environment and circumstances we navigate. It is a dynamic aspect of self-expression, adjusting to our choices, experiences, and the diverse contexts that shape our lives.  

Raised in Ghana (West Africa), as a child, hair maintenance was not a cause for concern. However, there were a few exceptions, such as:

1. If you attended primary or junior high school.

2. If you attended a private secondary school.

3. If you had a certain medical condition that allowed you to keep your hair.

4. If you were a foreigner attending school in Ghana

Apart from these exemptions, teenagers were mandated to shave their heads. This practice was endorsed by our elders and institutions, who asserted that hair maintenance was merely a distraction and deemed it to be a mature responsibility. They believed teenagers should embrace their youth and live accordingly.

I vividly remember consistently challenging these cultural norms. However, since coming to the UK, I've realised that the elders back home were safeguarding and preserving our youth. Here, I've observed that young people can occasionally appear more mature. This phenomenon might be attributed to factors such as the time, financial investment, and the styling approach they dedicate to their hair maintenance.

My relationship with my hair has undergone a transformation. I've come to realise that growing my hair demands considerable attention, time and financial investment, regularly involving the purchase of the latest products. Going natural requires extensive preparations, including combing, softening, blow-drying and styling. Despite sounding like a routine haircare practice, it's not. Textured hair in Black and genetically indigenous people demands more time and effort. Jeisen-Simone Tucker, the founder of ‘A Complete Guidebook to Black Hair,’ talks about the term ‘Textured Management’ in haircare, which refers to the professional understanding and care for the unique natural patterns of textured hair differentiated by Type 2, Type 3, or Type 4.

Considering the descriptions of the different types of hair textures, without a professional consultation, I think my hair might be Type 4b. Back in Ghana, when I expected to shave my hair, all that was required was a comb and shea butter. However, in the UK, I feel more pressured to conform to the expectations of others. Although I have enjoyed growing my hair, I do miss the feeling of the breeze on my scalp.

During a recent interview on Radio Cardiff, the founder and president of Black Girl Space Cardiff said, “As Black women, our hair gets policed so much. You could wear a weave, and people say that you don’t have hair. When you wear it naturally, people say it is not neat.”

I agree with Sheryl. During my time in the UK and my journey of hair growth, I am consistently questioned. While I understand that these questions are often not ill-intentioned, my hair always becomes a topic of discussion.

I am pleased that Wales is more progressive in tackling hair discrimination with initiatives and businesses such as Afro Hair Academy Wales, offering exclusive training on afro and textured hair. Founded by Joy Djadi, she expressed that her main goal in setting up the hair academy was to bring diversity into the hair industry, with the hope of educating future hairdressers and creative art spaces, by training them in textured maintenance.

While I am still adapting to this new hair journey, I have decided to seek professional advice to learn more about my type, maintenance and structure. Initiatives like Joy’s exist to help organisations and institutions eliminate hair discrimination by fostering a better understanding and appreciation for textured hair, especially when adapting to a new environment.

Hair, as a highly adaptable and expressive feature, reflects not only personal choices but also responds to the context and circumstances of one's life.